Washer Error Codes
Laundry is supposed to be one of those tasks you can do on autopilot — throw the clothes in, press a button, walk away. But then, your Whirlpool washer flashes a cryptic error code like “F9 E1” or “LOC,” and suddenly you’re decoding hieroglyphics instead of washing gym socks.
You’re not alone. These machines are smart — almost too smart — and when something goes sideways, they try to talk back. But unless you speak fluent “appliance,” the conversation gets frustrating, fast. So let’s strip out the mystery and break down what these codes really mean, what you can do about them, and when it’s time to call in a pro.
The Control Lock Mystery: “LOC” or “LC”
What it means: Your washer isn’t broken — it’s just locked. Control Lock is a child-safety feature designed to prevent unwanted button presses. Helpful if you have curious toddlers. Maddening if you’re trying to get laundry done at midnight.
Fix it: On most models, you can hold the Control Lock button for 3–5 seconds to unlock. Some models hide the function under a different button, like “End Cycle” or “Steam.” If in doubt, check your user manual or Whirlpool’s website by model number.
“dET” — The Cartridge Conundrum
Translation: The washer can’t detect the detergent cartridge. This typically shows up on models with Load & Go systems — handy when they work, annoying when they don’t.
What to do: Remove the cartridge, clean the contacts, and reinsert it. If you’re using single-load pods instead, ignore the message — it’s not relevant to your detergent style.
“Int”: Interrupted Cycle Syndrome
Why this happens: You stopped a cycle, and the washer’s still sulking about it. Maybe you opened the door mid-wash or canceled early.
Quick fix: Press the pause or cancel button twice, then power once. If that doesn’t do the trick, unplug the machine for 60 seconds and try again.
“rL” or “F34”: Washer Wants a Clean Drum
What it’s saying: You tried to run a Clean Washer cycle with clothes still inside. It won’t proceed until the drum’s empty.
Solution: Remove any items, then restart the cycle. Consider this your washer’s polite way of saying “clean me properly.”
“Sud” or “Sd”: Too Many Bubbles, Not Enough Chill
What’s going on: You used too much detergent, or the wrong kind. HE (high-efficiency) washers like Whirlpool’s front-load models are picky — too many suds can mess with sensors and drainage.
Your move: Switch to HE detergent if you haven’t already. Use less — seriously, less is more. And skip the fancy bleach with additives; it can throw things off.
“F5 E2”: Door Drama
Translation: The washer tried to lock the door and couldn’t. Could be a sock caught in the seal or just a minor sensor hiccup.
How to fix: Check for obstructions. Press cancel twice, power once. If the issue keeps recurring, it might be a latch problem — that’s technician territory.
“F7 E1”: Motor Speed Meltdown
What it means: The motor didn’t reach the right speed. Usually caused by overloading or — if this is a new washer — forgetting to remove the shipping bolts.
Steps to take: Make sure the machine isn’t overloaded, and check that any shipping restraints are removed. Still seeing the code? Time to call for service.
“F8 E1” or “LO FL”: Not Enough Water
Diagnosis: The washer isn’t getting sufficient water. Could be a kinked hose, shut-off valve, or even a slow water supply.
Fix it fast:
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Check both hot and cold water valves — they should be fully open.
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Inspect hoses for kinks, blockages, or built-in anti-flood devices.
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Clean the inlet filters if necessary.
“F8 E2”: Dispenser Disputes
Explanation: Your washer’s having a problem with the detergent or softener drawer — often related to blockages or dirty compartments.
What to try: Pull out the drawer, rinse everything, and clear out any detergent buildup. Reinsert and run a test cycle.
“F9 E1”: Drain Pain
The issue: The washer’s taking too long to drain. This is one of the most common — and messiest — Whirlpool error codes.
How to troubleshoot:
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Check the drain hose for kinks or clogs.
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Make sure the drain height and installation meet Whirlpool specs.
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If you hear the pump running but no water’s leaving, you might have a blockage inside.
When the Error Code Isn’t in the Manual: Random “F# E#” Codes
Sometimes your washer throws out an error that doesn’t even show up in Whirlpool’s official documentation. These ghost codes can mean electrical issues, communication faults, or a software glitch.
What you can do:
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Power down the washer for a minute.
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Plug it back in and run a rinse or spin cycle.
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If it persists, or happens regularly, get a technician involved.
When DIY Stops Working: Why Professional Help Matters
Some issues go beyond what a YouTube tutorial or manual can solve. If your washer’s acting like HAL from 2001: A Space Odyssey and you’re not an appliance whisperer, don’t keep throwing guesses at it.
This is where pros like ARS Appliances Repair Service step in. Our technicians live and breathe these machines. They don’t just swap out parts — they interpret what your appliance is trying to communicate.
With certified Whirlpool expertise, diagnostic tools, and real OEM parts, we get it done right. No guesswork. No waiting. No patchwork fixes.
Your Washer Isn’t Broken. It’s Just Talking.
Whirlpool’s error codes aren’t there to ruin your day — they’re just trying to tell you what’s wrong. Learn the language, and you’ll find most problems are solvable with a little patience and know-how. For the rest, having a skilled appliance tech in your corner can mean the difference between a small fix and a major laundry crisis.
If you need appliance repair in Barrie or London, or across Southern Ontario, ARS is here to help with all your whirlpool questions.
