How To Replace Washer Lid Switch (Part #3949238)

If your top load washer fills with water and agitates but will not spin or drain, the lid switch is a prime suspect. On many Whirlpool family direct-drive machines (Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Kirkland, Inglis) the mechanical lid switch 3949238 tells the control that the lid is closed so the washer can spin and pump out. This guide covers symptoms, quick diagnosis, tools, and a clear step-by-step replacement.

Symptoms that point to a bad lid switch

• Washer agitates but will not spin or drain
• No motor action when the cycle reaches spin or drain
• Intermittent operation when the lid is jiggled
• No audible “click” from the switch when the lid closes

Safety first

• Unplug the washer or switch off the dedicated breaker
• Turn off hot and cold water supplies if you need to move the unit
• Wear cut resistant gloves and protect the floor

For model diagrams and control layouts, see Whirlpool Product Help. Review electrical basics at the CSA electrical safety tips.

Tools and parts

• 1/4 inch nut driver or socket
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat blade screwdriver or putty knife
• Needle nose pliers (optional)
• Replacement lid switch 3949238 with harness and ground wire

Quick diagnosis before you replace

1. Open and close the lid slowly. Listen for a positive “click” at the end of travel. No click often means a failed switch or broken actuator tab.
2. With power off, remove the console and unplug the lid switch harness. Check continuity across the switch while pressing the actuator. Closed lid should read closed circuit, open lid should read open circuit.
3. Inspect the plastic actuator on the lid. A broken or bent actuator will not press the switch even if the switch is good.

Step by step replacement: 3949238

1. Disconnect power. Unplug the washer. Pull it forward slightly if needed.
2. Open the console. On many models, remove two screws at the console ends (from the back) or pop the front end caps to reveal and remove the screws. Hinge the console up and back.
3. Unplug the lid switch harness. Find the white three wire plug near the top and separate it. Remove the green ground wire screw if present.
4. Release the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry up the two steel spring clips that secure the cabinet to the rear panel.
5. Remove the cabinet. Open the lid, tilt the cabinet forward slightly, then lift it off the washer base and set it aside.
6. Remove the old switch. From the underside of the top panel, take out the two Phillips screws holding the switch. Free the harness from the retaining clips and remove the ground screw if fitted. Pull the harness out of the opening.
7. Install the new switch. Position the new 3949238 switch so the actuator aligns with the lid strike. Secure with the two screws. Route the harness through the factory clips along the underside of the top. Reinstall the green ground wire to bare metal.
8. Reinstall the cabinet. Set the cabinet back over the tub, align the front edge with the base tabs, and seat the rear. Snap the two steel clips back in place.
9. Reconnect the harness. Plug the lid switch connector into the chassis connector until fully seated. Tuck wires so they cannot rub.
10. Close the console. Rotate the console down and secure the two screws. Reinstall end caps if removed.
11. Test. Plug in the washer. Run a spin or drain and spin cycle. Close the lid and confirm the basket spins and water pumps out.

After installation checks

• Confirm a crisp “click” when closing the lid
• Verify the machine spins and drains with the lid closed and stops when the lid opens
• Inspect harness routing so it is not pinched by the cabinet or console

When the lid switch is not the fix

If the washer still does not spin or drain, check the lid strike, the motor coupler on direct drive models, the timer or control board, and the drain pump. If you prefer a professional diagnosis, start with our washer repair service or view all appliance repair services.

FAQ

Can I bypass the lid switch to test the washer?

No. Bypassing defeats a safety device and presents a hazard. Use a meter to test continuity or replace the switch if it fails.

My washer agitates but will not drain. Is that the lid switch?

On these models the lid switch is in the spin and drain path. If agitation works but spin and drain do not, the lid switch is a strong candidate. Also check the drain pump for blockages.

Do newer washers use a lid switch?

Many modern models use an electronic lid lock rather than a simple switch. Part 3949238 applies to older direct-drive machines.

Need help today Call 866 415 3937 or book washer repair. We serve Toronto, the GTA, and nearby communities.