How to Clean a Dryer Vent Safely: Complete DIY Guide for Toronto & GTA Homes
Updated: August 18, 2025
If your dryer is taking too long to dry, the laundry room feels hot, or you notice a burnt smell, your vent is likely restricted. This guide explains exactly how to clean a dryer vent, what to check first, tools you need, step-by-step cleaning, airflow testing, cold-weather tips, and when to schedule professional dryer vent cleaning in the GTA.
Why and how to clean a dryer vent
Hidden hazards of neglected vents
Lint is highly combustible. When it accumulates in the vent, the transition hose, or around the heater, it restricts airflow, overheats components, and increases fire risk. A stuck exterior damper or crushed connector can trap heat and moisture inside the dryer instead of exhausting it outdoors.
Benefits of regular dryer vent cleaning
- Energy efficiency: Clear ducts shorten cycle times and reduce utility costs.
- Fire safety: Removing lint from the vent path and wall cap reduces ignition risk.
- Better drying performance: Strong exhaust airflow prevents “two-cycle” loads.
- Longer appliance life: Less heat stress on thermostats, elements, and bearings.
Serving Toronto and the GTA: If you prefer a done-for-you service, book professional dryer vent cleaning. We handle condos, long runs, roof caps, and stacked units.
Signs your dryer vent needs cleaning
- Clothes take longer to dry or feel hot/damp at cycle end
- The dryer cabinet or laundry room feels unusually warm
- Burnt or musty odour during or after a cycle
- Visible lint around the outdoor vent or a damper that barely opens
- Excess moisture/condensation on nearby surfaces
Real-world example
John in North York noticed every load needed two cycles. We found a crushed transition hose and a stuck exterior damper. After replacing the hose, brushing the line, and servicing the cap, single-cycle drying returned and laundry room temperatures dropped immediately.
Symptoms and quick triage
| Symptom | Likely issue | Action | Urgency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clothes need 2+ cycles | Restricted airflow | Clean lint screen, vent line, and exterior hood | High (energy + wear) |
| Dryer or room feels very hot | Exhaust not exiting home | Check crushed/kinked hose; clear wall cap | High |
| Burnt odour | Lint near heater / in duct | Stop & clean thoroughly; inspect heater area | Critical (fire risk) |
| Lint on siding/ground at vent | Stuck flap or clogged screen | Clean/replace hood; ensure flap swings freely | Medium |
At-a-glance checklist
- Unplug power (and shut the gas valve for gas dryers)
- Clean the lint screen and lint cavity
- Disconnect and inspect the transition duct
- Brush and vacuum the full vent run (inside and outside)
- Clear/repair the exterior hood so the flap moves freely
- Reconnect with semi-rigid metal and foil tape (no screws)
- Test airflow outdoors; the flap should open fully
Tools and materials
- Vacuum with hose + crevice tool
- Dryer vent brush kit (4″, rotary or manual)
- Screwdriver or nut driver (hose clamps)
- UL 181 aluminium foil tape (not cloth “duct” tape)
- Semi-rigid metal transition duct (replace plastic/foil accordion)
- Gloves, eye protection, dust mask
Deep-clean the lint screen and moisture sensors
Water test: Hold the lint screen under a tap. If water beads or pools on the mesh, residue is blocking airflow. Scrub gently with warm water, a drop of dish soap, and a soft brush. Rinse and dry fully.
Clean the moisture sensors: Inside the drum (usually near the lint screen housing), wipe the two thin metal bars with isopropyl alcohol on a soft cloth. This removes film that causes inaccurate dryness readings and long cycles.
How to clean a dryer vent (step-by-step)
- Disconnect power/gas: Unplug. For gas, close the shutoff valve. Pull the dryer forward for access.
- Clean lint screen & cavity: Vacuum the housing and any visible lint paths.
- Remove the transition duct: Loosen clamp; twist off carefully. If it’s plastic/foil accordion, plan to replace it.
- Vacuum the dryer outlet: Clean the rear outlet port and the first section of duct.
- Brush the duct from indoors out: Feed the dryer vent brush rods into the duct; rotate while pushing/pulling. Vacuum loosened lint.
- Brush from the exterior back in: Remove/prop open the hood. Brush from outside to catch remaining lint and ensure the flap swings freely.
- Clear the exterior hood: Remove nests/debris. Replace damaged hoods; ensure no fixed screen blocks lint.
- Inspect the transition duct: Install semi-rigid aluminium with smooth bends; keep it short and unkinked.
- Seal & reconnect: Use clamps + aluminium foil tape. No screws penetrating the airstream.
- Test airflow: Run Air/Fluff. Outside, feel strong airflow; the flap opens fully; no hot air leaks indoors.
Simple airflow test
Set the dryer to Air/Fluff and go outside. Hold a tissue at the vent hood:
- Pass: The tissue is pulled flat and the damper opens fully and steadily.
- Fail: Weak airflow, damper barely moves, or air leaks around the siding. Recheck for kinks, interior lint, or a stuck hood.
Optional: A budget vane anemometer can give a before/after airflow reading for long runs.
Vent materials and routing best practices
- Main runs: 4″ smooth-wall rigid metal; short transition behind dryer should be semi-rigid metal.
- Avoid: Plastic or thin foil flex—easy to crush, trap lint, and increase fire risk.
- Joints: Use listed clamps + foil tape. Do not use sheet-metal screws inside the duct.
- Length & elbows: Keep runs short with gentle bends; check your dryer’s installation guide for the maximum equivalent length.
Quick equivalent length guide (typical; confirm your model)
| Fitting | Equivalent length |
|---|---|
| 90° elbow | ~5 ft |
| 45° elbow | ~2.5 ft |
| Exterior hood (louver) | ~0–5 ft (varies by design) |
Tip: If equivalent length exceeds your manufacturer’s limit, you may need a listed dryer booster fan installed per instructions.
Exterior vent hoods
- Damper/Flapper: Must open freely and close tight. Replace if sticky or damaged.
- Screens: Fixed screens trap lint quickly; clean often or upgrade to a proper damper hood.
- Roof vs wall: Wall terminations are easier to service; roof caps need more frequent checks.
Choose the right exterior hood
| Type | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Louvered wall cap (damper) | Opens easily, low resistance | Needs periodic lint clearing |
| “Critter guard” with fixed screen | Blocks pests | Clogs fast with lint; requires frequent cleaning |
| Roof cap | Works when wall exit isn’t possible | Harder to service; check more often |
Tip: Whatever you choose, the damper must swing freely and close fully.
Cold-climate fixes (Toronto & GTA)
- Ice at the cap: In sub-zero weather, moisture can frost the wall cap and jam the flapper. Clear ice and lint, and consider a low-resistance damper.
- Condensation in unheated spaces: If the duct passes through a garage, crawlspace, or exterior wall cavity, wrap the metal duct with insulation to reduce condensation and lint buildup.
- Short transition run: Pushing the dryer too close can crush the hose. Use a short, gently curved semi-rigid connector and check clearance after you slide the unit back.
Seasonal tips for Toronto & the GTA
- Winter: Clear snow/ice from wall caps; frost can jam flappers.
- Spring: Birds may nest in unprotected hoods—inspect and install a proper damper hood.
- Renovations: Drywall dust and debris demand a post-reno vent cleaning.
Condos, stacked units, and long runs
- Shared shafts: Request building access before cleaning; many stacks need rotary brushing from roof and suite levels.
- Stacked laundry: Confirm the stacking kit is tight before and after you pull the unit.
- Long runs: If the equivalent length exceeds your dryer’s rating, ask about a listed booster fan and schedule professional cleaning.
Gas dryer specifics
- Always shut the gas valve before moving the unit.
- After reconnection, leak-check the flex connector with a soap solution.
- Keep a working CO alarm near sleeping areas.
When to replace parts instead of cleaning
- Transition hose: Replace plastic or thin foil accordion with semi-rigid aluminium.
- Wall cap: Replace if the damper sticks, the collar is cracked, or a fixed screen is caked with lint.
- Main duct: Consider replacement if it’s crushed behind finished walls, excessively long with many elbows, or shows scorch marks.
Safety reminders
- Do not run the dryer while sleeping or away from home.
- Keep the area behind and under the dryer free of lint and clutter.
- For gas dryers, test for leaks after moving the unit and keep a working CO alarm nearby.
How often to clean a dryer vent
| Household profile | Recommended frequency |
|---|---|
| 1–2 people, light laundry | Every 12–18 months |
| Family (3–5), regular laundry | Every 12 months |
| Large family, pets, heavy towels | Every 6 months |
| After renovations (dust/debris) | Immediately after project |
Troubleshooting after cleaning
- Still slow: Recheck for kinks, long runs, stuck flapper, or leaks; confirm strong outdoor airflow.
- Room heats up: Seal joints with foil tape; verify the duct didn’t detach inside the wall.
- Burnt smell: Stop, inspect heater area and lint path; if odour persists, contact ARS.
What’s included with ARS dryer vent cleaning
- System inspection (transition hose, main duct, exterior hood)
- Rotary brushing and high-power vacuum extraction
- Exterior hood service or replacement recommendation
- Airflow verification at the wall cap
- Before/after findings and maintenance tips tailored to your setup
Need help? Request dryer vent cleaning or contact ARS for same-week appointments.
Helpful, authoritative resources
Service areas
We clean and repair dryer vents across Toronto, Mississauga, Brampton, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill, Oshawa, Pickering, Ajax, and the GTA.
FAQ
How long does dryer vent cleaning take?
Most single-family homes take 45–90 minutes; long or concealed runs take longer.
What duct is best for a dryer?
Use 4″ smooth-wall rigid metal for the main run and semi-rigid aluminium behind the dryer. Avoid plastic or foil flex for long runs.
Can I put a screen on the outside vent?
A fixed screen traps lint quickly. A proper damper hood is safer—clean it regularly.
Do booster fans help?
Only when the vent run exceeds your dryer’s rated equivalent length. Install a listed booster fan per manufacturer instructions.
How often should I clean the lint screen?
Every load. Deep-clean with warm water and a drop of dish soap if water beads on the mesh.
My dryer heats but doesn’t dry. Is that the vent?
Usually. Heat without airflow equals slow drying. Clean the vent line, replace a crushed connector, and verify the exterior damper opens fully.
